The Florida Citrus Model Train Society will begin construction of a NEW "HO" Scale Modular Layout. The Co-Chairman will be Mike Collins and Tom Rottenberg. Mike is a Master Modeler with the NMRA (National Model Railroad Association). He has an extensive "HO" Scale Layout in a dedicated room in his residence. Mike has written articles in the major model railroading magazines which makes him well qualified for the project. Tom Rottenberg is retired from Pembroke Pines Recreation Department. He is an Assistant Scout Master in Copper City. He works with the Scouts and certifies them for the Model Train Merit Badge. Tom has been displaying "HO" Trains at many of our displays all over South Florida. We willl use the NMRA specifications. Work will begin this summer.  The actual website we are using is the one done by The Prince William County Model Railroad Club, 550 Railroad Avenue, Quantico, Virginia. We already have "G" Scale & "O" Scale Modular Layouts. Several of our members are "HO" Scale modelers. I personally want to thank Mike Collins and Tom Rottenberg for taking on this project.  Dr. Ken Sargeant, President FCMTS.  

Mike Collins (NMRA Master Model Railroader #157) in the Main Lobby of the Museum of Discovery & Science standing by his section of the Florida Citrus Model Train Society "New HO Scale Layout"

Report # 1

The start of a new project to enhance and expand our different scale train layouts.

As of May 31, 2013, there are seven members of the Florida Citrus Model Train Society planning to construct a straight module. Kieve is only interested but will help anyone. We will use the NMRA specifications as discribed by the Prince William County (VA) Model Railroad Club (pwmrc.org). The 20 page document will be our reference and primary guide. Any deviations ouside the major specs must be approved by a majority vote of the HO builders or a Standards Committee (when one is agreed to).

Step 1 is the purchase of the Bill of Materials found on page 9.

Picture 1 (295) shows the items needed to construct the benchwork shown in Figures 1, 2 & 3 on pages 12, 13 and 14. I purchased my supplies from Home Depot. The cost was around $140. They are for the frame 1x4 select pine cut to 4' (2 ea.), 1x4 cut 22 & 1/2 for the ends and braces (only 1 on edge is needed if using a plywood deck. 3 braces laid flat against the top of the frame are needed for support of the foam material and terminal blocks shown in Fig. 5) These will be glued (yellow/wood type) and screwed with 1& 5/8 drywall screws (Note: 1 pound box). A door handle will be added to the back side. The legs will be 2x2 select pine cut to 38 inches (4  ea.) with 3 inch 3/8 carriage bolts (4 ea.) and 3/8 Tee Nuts (4 ea). The leg pockets (Fig.3) use 2x2 cut 3 & 1/2 inches (8 ea.) and 1x4 cut 4 & 1/2 (4 ea.). The legs are screwed with 2 inch 1/4 size eye bolts with 1/4 Tee Nuts (4 ea.). The frame and legs will be painted Black - satin, ie. Glidden GL8913. The Skyboard (which is the North side of the module), is 1/8 inch tempered hardboard panel cut 16 in. x 4 feet (from a 2x4 piece cut by Home Depot). Mine will be secured with 2 in. heavy duty spring clamps (4 ea.). It will be painted Blue, ie. Glidden Clear Blue Sky - flat GLB15. The Deck can be 3/8 plywood or thicker 2x4. Homosote can be added. A suitable material can be 1 inch high density foam (insulation) project board. I will use 2x2' (2 ea.) Foamular, secured with Liquid Nails - paneling adhesive. The deck is painted an earth tone, ie Glidden Bittersweet Chocolate - flat GLN19. Since you need Grey paint for the cork roadbed (before ballasting) I purchased Glidden Seal Grey - flat GLN46.

Picture 2 (296) The fist spike actually two screws (pre-drilled and counter-sunk) after gluing a corner. Any questions, please contact me.

Thanks

Mike Collins

Chairman - HO Module Project

PS: Will print this for Greg and whoever joins the HO Mods group

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Report # 2

Greetings ... Mod HO's

When you purchase your supplies, have the "lumber" guy cut

as much as possible.

Picture 1 (297) Shows one leg pocket (ref. Figure 3 on page 14).

Helpful Hints ...

If you have two drills, use one for a 7/64 drill bit for the pilot hole

and one for the 3/8 countersink. An electric screwdriver also

speeds up the job.

For extra support, I added a 1 & 5/8 fine drywall screw on the end-side

into a 2x2 leg pocket block.
Leg fit ... I had to use my electric sander to trim the top four inches

for pocket clearance.

Picture 2 (298) Shows Fig. 2, p.13)

Note the 3 braces laid flat, with the end ones butted against the

leg pockets. Since I am using a foam deck, this will provide support

and later the terminal block under the deck.

A spray of WD-40 on the carriage bolts makes screwing them into

the tee-nuts easier.

Next is to "glue" the foam project boards to the frame ...

Report #3 follows.

Mike

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Report # 3

Progress ...

Picture 1 (300) The benchwork is ready for some Liquid Nails -

panel adhesive to secure the 1 inch foam deck.

The WD-40 was used to lubricate the hardware.

Picture 2 (304) Weighing down the foam til it sets.

The edges of the foam are square with the side-ends.

Any gap between the two pieces will be filled-in.

It is easy to cut and sand the foam.

Note the back skyboard is clamped in place.

So far it took me around 9 hours over the course

of four days.

Next will be some front edge work and gap filling,

then painting the skyboard, the frame, legs and the deck.

Also ...

We need one or three more straight modules and three

corners. Mike plans to do a wide corner (Fig. 9, p.20).

This will connect on the West side of his module/

Note: Wide corners provide scenery space and continious

sky background.

Reminder: The railhead (top of the rail) is 40 inches from

the floor ... 38" legs, deck height, roadbed & track, and the

adjustment of the carriage bolt feet.

Too-da-lu

Mike

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Report # 4

Howdy ...

Picture 1 (305) The deck edges are contoured/profiled about 1 inch from the ends

so the square end with butt against the next module.

I used an old bread knife and sand paper.

The gaps are filled with light-weight spackling, including the recessed screws ...

after drying, we're ready for painting.

Picture 2 (306) The painted bench work and the skyboard put back on after painting.

I used a small roller for the blue skyboard to prevent brush marks.

The back is painted black per specs; and cut-out space for the carry handle (ref. p. 4)

So, this what you get for $150., 12 hours of work, and with the humidity I lost

3 pounds (which I could afford).

Ready for the roadbed and track.

See you at breakfast.

Mike

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Report # 5

Part 1

Greetings HO Railbirds ...

On June 7 at Fridays' breakfast, the HO Builders voted on three minor issues.

1. The outside mainline will be used for continious run only (no turnouts/crossovers, etc.)

This is the standard display at shows. Also, this will save extra expense, insulating rails and possible track problems.

2. On the inside mainline, #4 or #6 turnouts will be allowed.

Bill @ Ready To Roll says Atlas won't have #6 NS Code 100 until fall.

Rick @ Discount Trains says Atlas has to redo the #6 dies and may not be available

until Christmas.

3. The turnout off the inside mainline will be insulated on the north ("B") rail.

That's the rail closes to the skyboard.

Mainline and Branch line Tracks ... Two critical steps ... roadbed & track measurements.

Part 1 ... the start ...

First you need to figure out a track plan

Picture 1 (308) is my Track Plan which will be a team track and one industry.

Picture 2 (313) shows the tools that I'll use.

As indicated in the specs are the mainlines, 5 inches and 7 inches to the centerline (CL);

and the track stops 4 & 1/2 inches before the end of the module.

Therefore a square or a something similar and a ruler are essential.

Ref. Figure 4 on Page 15, with information on pages 5 & 6.
continues

Part 2

Lay out the track, cut/file and install the rail joiners.

Along side the track mark where the roadbed will go.

Cut the cork to fit your track plan.

Picture 1 (309) shows my roadbed, glued with Liquid Nails

and painted gray as specified.

A yardstick was used to mark a straight line for the cork CL.

Since I have a turnout, the cork is tapered (cut and sanded),

then a piece of cardstock is used to finish the grade. The

gray blend fine ballast will fill-in the gaps.

In my case the team track will use the gray ballast; and the

industry will use cinders and soil.

Sand the roadbed, either before or after painting.

Check that the track fits before applying adhesive.

Picture 2 (310) The adhesive is "buttered" on the roadbed.

You have 20 to 30 minutes to install the track to fit the correct

measurements.

continues

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Part 3

Picture 1 (311) shows that no adhesive is applied under the moving parts

of a turnout or pass the track stops.

Picture 2 (312) after placing the track in position according to the measurements,

and using a yardstick to keep the track straight,

I used a piece of 4x4 wood to sqeeze-out any excess adhesive, then

I weighted down the track for the glue to set.

All of this seems easy, but it takes time to ensure the cork and track

measurements are accurate. I spent about 5 hours to do this.

The old addage "measure twice, cut once" applies.

Note: I'll insert the missing ties (from the flex track ends) after soldering the

rail joiners and the wiring. Then I'll ballast the track.

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Part 4

One problem I ran into using an Atlas #4 LH Turnout was the

throw-bar "controls" were located on the straight rail side and

may interfere with outside mainline, especially if you install a

ground throw. Also, the model I purchased was a "manual electric"

turnout. So first I removed the make believe electric motor, then

cut-off the excess plastic edges so it only show the ties.

Picture 1 (315) Installing a Caboose Industries #202S (spring)

Ground Throw.

I cut-off the excess throw bar piece on the straight side.

Next I trimmed the throw part on the curved side; and drilled

a 1/16 hole, after a pilot hole was drilled using a pin vise.
For installation, move the turnout rails to the center and hold them

wih toothpicks. Then raise the throw lever half way and insert the

plastic pin into the drilled hole on the throw bar.

You may need to remove a little cork if the movement is not smooth.

Use 1/2 inch brad/nails with a touch of CA (super-glue) applied.

Picture 2 (316) Here's the result after the nail heads are "painted"

black with a Sharpie and the throw head painted white (makes it

easier to spot the set location). Ready to do the next one !

That completes the basic cork roadbed and track installation

to meet the NMRA HO Module Specifications.

Next will be the electrical connections ... Figure 5 - Report #6.

Anything that may be confusing, please send me an email ...

however I'll be away from June 15 to July 2, 2013.

See you at Friday breakfast June 14 and July 5.

Mike

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Report # 6

Part 1

 Now for the electrical connections ...

Picture 1 (314) here are the supplies (p. 9) and tools needed to do the job on page 7, referred to in the Wiring Diagram in Figure 5 (p. 16).

The connect set has the connectors and stranded wire attached. This and the solid wire (2 feet of black and 2' of red) was purchased at Lowes (cost $16.)

The other items called for ... the terminal block (2) and the crimp-on spade terminals are available at Radio Shack for around $14.

Picture 2 (317) here is what the finished electrical harness looks like before installation.

The connector wiring piece is 15 inches, the stranded cable is 3 feet long and

the solid wires are 1 foot.

I'm showing this against the back of the skyboard. In Part 2 I'll show the installation.

NOTE: For those of us that have a storage problem ... I bought large, "padded" hooks

and anchors @ Lowes to install on the wall in my garage.

I cut two holes in the skyboard to hang on these 5 inch flat hooks.

After removing the legs, which are numbered to match the pockets, I'll hang the

module/legs on these hooks. I might add a third hook for security.

Back to work ...
Mike

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Part 2

Report # 7

A few things to finish the basic module before starting the scenery.

Picture 1 (320) shows the missing ties installed and glued after

removing the "tie-plate" plastic lumps.

Also shown is my industry foundation, and notes regarding modifying

a canopy shed/ traveling crane over a track.

A flatcar was used to checkout the turnouts and track.

Touch up any paint scrapes/needed areas.

Picture 2 (321) with the legs removed, the module is "hung-up" in front

of the skyboard. I can cover it to keep it clean and safe from damage.

Now I can drive into the garage.

Will get back to finish the project in July, 2013.

Next ... Reports: Structures, Roads, Ground Cover and Ballasting

and my favorite ... Details. Finally operation/connection

to other modules/checkout & display.

I trust these reports are helpful. Let me know.

til then ...

Mike Collins

P.S. Anyone with helpful hints, please let everyone know via

supplements to my reports. Just identify the reference

Report ... ie. Report # -- add "A", "B", etc. Send the email

with or w/o attachments to Ken.

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Report # 8

Greetings RailRunners ...

Note #1. Joe has decided to focus on his "O" scale module

instead of building an HO module. This means we now have 8

straight modules planned and 2 corners as of July 5, 2013.

Someday we need to decide on either  loop end modules,

which means one main line or somebody volunteers to do two

more corners.

Note #2. With two main lines, let's use the outside main for

passenger or freight train operation.  The inside main for freight

trains only.

Report #8  

Freight Line Operating Extension for home use.

Since I'd like to operate the module at home, I decided to draw up

a plan to extend the freight main line so I can switch my industry.

Part 1 ...

Picture 1 (676) the wood work ...

the top piece is 20 inches, the vertical support is 15" and the piece

against the module is 6".  The select pine pieces were cut by Lowes. 

After sanding, applied wood glue, drilled & countersunk holes for

the holding screws.

Picture 2 (677) I installed two dowels to aid in support.  I also drilled

a large hole for the wiring feed-thru.  The extension will be held with

a bar clamp.     ... continues ...

Picture 3 (678) Here is the electrical connection (better than

relieing on the rail joiners).  The red and black wires have

been soldered to the track and routed thru the cutout holes.

I am using alligator clips to connect to the next module plug.

Note the dowels (black ends).

Note the white wire (left over from the trailer connector harness)

with an alligator clip is going to the industry spur (also soldered).

Someday I may connect this wire to the terminal block and

install a switch.

Picture 4 (679)   Here is the painted 1x3 ... 20 inch extension with a

rerailer as the module connector track.

This extension can handle a Switcher and two 50' cars.

With a Power Supply, I can now operate my module

as a switching layout with four cars.

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Report # 9

We have a Digital Command Control System !

I purchased a  Model Rectifier Corp. (MRC)

Prodigy Advance 2 wired DCC system from

Ready To Roll.  It is user friendly with tons of

technology features.  Max current is 3.5 amps.

A booster can be added if we need it.

Picture 1 (680) Shows the components and the

connections.  The small black box is the power

supply, the larger unit is the Command Station

cabled to the LCD Cab/Handheld unit.

A 14 foot computer network cable can replace the

5 foot cable.   Additional Cabs can be added.

The two main lines have jumpers at the terminal

strip, so both tracks will operate off of the same unit,

two cabs or more.

Each locomotive will have its own address ...

usually the locomotive number.

Picture 2 (681) Everything works ... operation, diesel

sounds, bell, horn, etc.   It's Great !

Onward ... to structures and scenery ...

Mike

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Report # 10

Greetings ...

This report will cover Ballasting and a Bridge to the world !

For ballast ... the standard is Woodland Scenics fine gray blend.

By the way I have a lot left over if anyone needs some.

Picture 1 (685) shows the supplies and the results ... the ballast,

spray bottle of alcohol (wintergreen has a nice aroma) or wet-water

(2 drops of detergent in a pint of water), scenic cement or diluted

white glue and some applicators.

First cover the moving parts of your turnouts with tape ... ie. painters

or masking.

Here is a few helpful suggestions ... "paint" non-diluted white glue on

the edge of the roadbed. Then sprinkle ballast on the wet glue.  This

will hold the ballast on the slanted edge.

Then spoon the ballast on the track and brush off the excess from the ties.

Spray the ballast with alcohol or wet-water.  Finally apply the cement

or diluted glue with an eye-droper or pipette.

The next day clean the rails and ties.  Remove the tape from the turnouts

and vacuum.

Apply ballast on the missed areas and around/near the moving parts of

the turnouts and repeat the wetting/cement process.

Note ... for the spurs, I used fine Turf.

Picture 2 (686) shows a bridge I installed.

I'm using two early highway bridges made by Rix.  One set with a column

pier, the other set I used Woodland Scenics Retaining Wall (3 in a package).

One stone wall will be against the scenery, the other two are glued

together (back-to-back) as a pier near the edge of the module.

They are painted stone gray and weathered to highlight the stones.

I used an aging solution but diluted india ink can be used.

After assembling the bridge I dullcoted and weathered it before installation.

After installing the bridge, it was too long, so I hacksawed one section

(1 & 3/4 inches).

The project continues ... next comes the roads ...

Mike

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Report # 11 Roads Part 1

This report will deal with basic roads.

Picture 1 (687) shows the roads I'm doing for my module.

I first laid down a large sheet of poster-size paper on the

module to draw a sketch of the roads that would fit.

The road width will be the same as the bridge, about

2 and 3/4 inches or close to 3 inches.

After cutting out the paper I used it as a template on a

piece of foam-core.  I cut the foam-core on a bevel for the

road edge.   This is the road base.

I'll be using Woodland Scenics Smooth It, a plaster-based

material for the road surface.  I'll paint the road with Top Coat.

Since I want a little contour to the flat module, I built-up the

corner using broken ceiling tiles

Picture 2 (688) shows another view and a section of road that

meets the track.  Since this piece extends pass my module,

 I'll make it removeable.  However the next module will be my

corner or maybe a return loop end module.

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Report # 11 Roads Part 2

Picture 3 (698) Here is the Smooth It after sanding;

and the start of painting the surface.

The small piece of foam-core with the red marks is

used as a guide for painting.

Picture 4 (699)  After painting is complete I'll use a fine

red ore ground cover on the roadside (like some roads

in PA).  Then I'll use white stripe decals for lane

seperation.

Note ... the large foundation will be an industry; and on

both sides of the bridge angled abuttment will be two

structures.

The road near the edge of the module will be a flag-stop

station.

Next will be the start of structures and scenery.

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Report # 12  Structures and Scenery

Greetings ...

With a 2x4 module you are limited to the number of structures

that will fit.  My Plan (May/June 2013) was a sketch of what I'd like

and the location of the structures.  As I began construction, you

find out in reality you need to adjust your plan.  I am able to have

the structures but needed to change their location.  Also I had

to cut a corner of my industry.

Picture 1 (707) shows the placement of the structures, that need

to be finished,  To the left will be a gas station (tar paper roof),

the plaster bldg. will be a tavern; and across the tracks a flag

stop station.  Under the overpass will be a RR concrete phone

booth and a equipment shed.

The industry is Vulcan Iron & Steel products with

a water tower and a overhead traveling crane under a canopy.

Note the culvert.

Picture 2 (708) shows the culvert with a cutout stream bed filled

with rocks, various soils and coffee grounds.

Next comes the "water" ... EnviroTex lite, a two part epoxy.

At this point I'm about 85% completed.

Back to work.

M.C.

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Report # 13 Scenery, Hills

Part 1 of 2

Greetings ...

If you want to add some hills, this report my help.

Woodlandscenics.com has over 100 free videos that

show how to use all their products. On their website,

under Navigation, select Videos, then whatever you're

interested in.

Here's a method I use ... first gather some small rocks

and stones, or make some with hydrocal and molds or

do both. 

Picture 1 (849) shows rocks  I picked up in

Steamtown (Scranton, PA). Got thru TSA without an

explanation. 

Picture 2 (861) shows plaster cloth over waded

paper cushions (instructions are on the package). 

I covered the rocks to reduce getting plaster on them.

Picture 3 (862) To fill-in any holes, use smooth-it, flex paste or spackle.

Ready to push-in the rocks with some spackle applied.

... continues ...

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Report #13 Hills

Part 2 of 2

Picture 4 (864) shows the rocks pushed in and filled-in

around them so they blend in with the terrain.

Picture 5 (865) the basic hills are painted with various colors

of inexpensive craft paints.  Ready to add ground cover

and "water".

Picture 6 (866) another view before adding trees, soil, etc.

Next is structures and scenery, which I have started.

Right now I'm about 90% finished.

Mike

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Report #14 Structures

Part 1 of 2

Well Railbirds, I'm getting close to finishing my module.

I was able to install 6 structures.

Picture 1 (870) a Blair kit "Texaco" gas station converted

to Pennzoil. Also a RR concrete phone booth and a equip.

shed next to Toby Creek.

Picture 2 (876) Angel Kildare's 19th Hole Trackside Tavern,

a Downtown Deco plaster kit with extra details.

Picture 3 (872) Exeter flag-stop station (Woodland Scenics).

My first car is parked ... a 52 Plymouth (gone back to

the Pennzoil to get more oil).

continues ...

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Report #14 Structures

Part 2 of 2

Picture 4 (873) Vulcan metal works is the RR industry.

This is a Walthers kit that I modified to fit, plus I added

extra details.

Picture 5 (874) is a MOW storage boxcar ... note FCMTS.

Picture 6 (875) the Yard Cafe is another Blair kit.  It has a

simple interior when the roof is removed. 

Most of the scenery, background and details are done.

One more report to do.

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Report #15 The Final Report

Part 2 of 2

Picture 4 (887) Some LV cabin cars had backup lights rather than doing run arounds. Nearby is a work car with a lot of detail (my passion). So, in my case I spent extra time and money doing super-detailing. We all have a skill level, time and expendable income, so do what you can.

Picture 5 (890) Since some of us have storage prolems, I install two large flat hooks in my garage to hang the skyboard and module without the structures.

The structures are in a file box overhead. I think I can set up the module, my track extension when I want to run a train at home; and the power pack in 30 minutes.

Picture 6 (891) Covered with an old shower curtain. I really enjoyed doing this portable layout. If you need any advise, let me know.

Ready when you are.

See you at breakfast.

Amen

Mike

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